On Saturday a group from Mass Oyster enjoyed a fascinating
tour of the Newburyport Shellfish Purification Plant that is located on the very
Northern Tip of Plum Island. It is one of only a few publicly run shellfish
purification plants in the country. Diane Regan and Jeff Kennedy were veritable
founts of information providing a soup-to-nuts discussion of clams in
Massachusetts. We thank them for giving of their time so generously on a
beautiful Saturday afternoon.
DMF Professionals Jeff Kennedy and Diane Regan at the plant |
In the 1920’s there were significant problems with food
safety in the U.S.. As the country became more crowded and industrialized waste
treatment was still rudimentary and coastal water quality began to fall. Steamer clams were being harvested from less
pristine waters and shipped around the country. As they were traveling longer
before consumption there was more time for them to go bad and for people to get
sick.
Recognizing that there was a problem Newburyport
established a shellfish purification plant. The plant would later be taken over
by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.
Later the Federal Government would begin regulation of
shellfish through the FDA, the same organization that oversees milk quality. The FDA publishes an extensive manual that
contains inches of regulations on the harvest and handling of shellfish.
Interestingly, the US regulations are much tighter than the European ones and
the import of European Shellfish is basically taboo due to the health concerns.
The purification plant allows the harvest of clams from
waters of marginal water quality, which otherwise would not be fit for
consumption. Under a tightly regulated process, the clams are harvested from coastal
areas, including Boston Harbor; they are locked in trucks that follow specified
routes to the purification plant. The collection-trucking process is thoroughly
documented to prevent diversion.
Some of the tracking paperwork. |
Apparently in the 1970’s diversion was going
on, and clammers were selling a portion of the clams from marginal waters directly
to bars and restaurants. A TV news reporter highlighted this in “Clam Scam”
that created the impetus for establishing the current system.
Clams undergoing the purification process. |
In the plant, they take filtered salt water from two springs
and soak the clams for a period of several days in several large tanks. While
the clams are in the tanks the water is run through filtration lights to
eliminate bacteria that are released from the clams.
The final rinse station. |
Following treatment, the clams are rinsed off in a high
power rinsing station.
Diane Regan show a plate ready for counting. |
After treatment a random sampling of the clams are taken,
ground up and then a portion of the liquid is alloquotted onto agar plates. The
bacterial count is taken using E.coli. E.coli is a surrogate for viruses that
would make the clam eater sick. Unfortunately it is expensive and difficult to
test for those viruses directly. So they test for E.coli. E coli is also the
measure used for looking at water quality and where shellfish may be harvested.Assuming they pass all the tests, which they usually do,
they are shipped out to market.
Greg Hanson counts the colonies of E.Coli. |
The tour was scheduled for an hour, but took two as there
were lots of questions and sidebars taking us off-topic into other areas of
coastal ecology.
One interesting observation from an oyster restoration
perspective was that the regulation of shellfish in the Commonwealth has grown out
of a food safety program. With this singular historic perspective, there has been
little discussion of oysters as habitat for 100 other species. As a result MOP
has been in the challenging position of asking our officials to look at the
situation from a different perspective when we discuss oyster restoration.
Increasingly, we seem to be finding more common ground, particularly when we
think of oyster propagation zones.
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